The last few posts have been dedicated to a self-imposed kitchen challenge: to create a Japanese curry meal that was as delicious as it was healthy and wholesome (Part I, Part II & III). To recap:
The Challenge: Make a wholesome Japanese Curry that is at least as delicious as the stuff that people rave about with facial expressions out of a manga comic.
The Rules: No refined sugar, no gluten, no additives, no nightshades, no inflammatory oils.
The Adjudicator: A native Japanese and self-proclaimed curry-lover (although you could argue that the second statement is a logical implication of the first). Let’s call him M.
The Caveat: I’ve never even had Japanese curry before *laughs nervously*
I divided the challenge into three parts. The first part was to create my own fukujinzuke, the pickled condiment that often accompanies curry dishes in Japan. Part II was to make curry roux, the mixture of fat, flour and spices used to thicken curries. Lastly, in part III, I introduced my recipe for chicken curry. The challenge could very well have stopped there, but by that time, my mind was so wrapped up in everything Japanese-curry, that I had to keep going, despite myself. So here is part IV, where I deviate from all norms and pursue my own frivolous idiosyncrasies.
The Challenge — Part IV (Bonus)
Japanese Curry Kraut
Characters in 美味しんぼ (Oishinbo), a manga about food, arguing about how to make curry (Kaiya: 1990). Japanese manga are read from right to left, so if you look at the last panel (bottom left), you can see that the argument does not end well for these foodie friends!
I’m sure none of the characters in the above comic would agree that my recipe today should in any way, shape or form be considered “Japanese curry,” but trust me, the flavour is unequivocal. It’s Japanese curry. In pickle form. And it’s amazing.
For those of you who have visited my blog before, or who follow me on Instagram, you are no doubt aware that I am rather enthusiastic about fermentation. Krauts, pickles and fermented beverages are a staple in my fridge and on my kitchen counters. I am always looking for new ways and new ingredients to ferment. I find the experimentation potential inebriating.
The idea for recipe came about as I churned about in bed in the dark of the night (as ideas are wont to do). I was pondering, among other things, my next fermentation project, and, perhaps still under the seductive spell of that delicious chicken curry from a few nights prior, the idea struck. Why not make Japanese curry-flavoured kraut? I chuckled to myself. I wasn’t sure if the idea was brilliant or absolutely ridiculous. But there was only one way to find out. I fell asleep and dreamed about curry.
Ok, I didn’t. I probably dreamed about being having my high school diploma revoked, or something comparatively ludicrous…
If you’re a fan of Japanese curry or of fermented foods (and definitely if you’re a fan of both!), you’ll love this Japanese curry-flavoured kraut, with its crunchy, sweet and mildly spicy parsnip, carrot and cabbage pieces. I used the same seasonings as in my chicken curry recipe: lots of ginger and garlic, onion, curry powder, garam masala, and my deconstructed Worcestershire sauce (molasses, tomato paste, tamarind paste and anchovy paste). Obviously, you won’t taste the chicken (pickled chicken?) in this curry, but it’ll still knock your socks off.
Kraut Making 101
#1 Chopping
Although not necessary for fermentation per se, chopping your vegetables creates more surface area from which to draw out its juices. Since kraut usually relies on dry-salting rather than brining, the finer the chop, the easier it is to pack and submerge the vegetables in step 3.
#2 Salting
Salt is important for four reasons. 1) Through osmosis, it helps draw water out of your vegetables, to create an anaerobic (no oxygen) environment for lactic acid bacteria to grow. 2) Salt keeps your vegetables crispier by hardening pectin fibres and hampering their digestion by enzymes. 3) Salt creates an environment favourable to lactic acid bacteria (the good guys!) and less so to other, less desirable microorganisms, giving the former a competitive advantage. 4) Salt slows down the fermentation process, extending the potential for preservation. You can play around with the amount of salt, but I don’t recommend skipping it!
#3 Pounding and Packing
Bruising the vegetables further helps to draw out their juices. You can use your hands to massage the vegetables, or use a specialized pounding tool designed for this purpose. The next step is to pack the vegetable mixture inside a fermentation vessel such a mason jar or a crock.
#4 Submerging
In order to prevent undesirable molds from growing on your carefully prepared kraut, you want to maintain an anaerobic (no oxygen) environment for your vegetables, which requires keeping them submerged under their own juices. A few options include: 1) Using a fermentation weight (usually made of glass or safe ceramic). 2) Saving and washing the tough outer leaves of your cabbage, and using that to push down the vegetables. At the end of the fermentation period, discard these leaves. The kraut underneath should be free of mold.
#5 Covering
To limit oxygen exposure and prevent surface molds from developing, it is important to cover the opening of your vessel. At the same time, you don’t want to seal it completely because, especially during the first week, the lactic acid bacteria will be releasing carbon dioxide, which can build up in your vessel and cause an unwanted disaster. A few options include: 1) covering the opening of your jar with a coffee filter of a piece of cheesecloth, fastened with an elastic band. 2) Using a lid, but keeping it loosely fastened, or making sure to unfasten the lid every day to release the air buildup in your jar. 3) Using a specialized airlock system.
Joëlle
Yields 3 quarts
If you're a fan of Japanese curry or of fermented foods (and definitely if you're a fan of both!), you'll love this Japanese curry-flavoured kraut, with crunchy, sweet and mildly spicy parsnip, carrot and cabbage pieces. Munch to your heart's content: this Japanese curry is 100% good for you!
Save Recipe
Ingredients
- 1 Napa cabbage, sliced thinly
- 1 sweet Asian carrot
- 2 parsnips
- 1 red onion, thinly sliced
- Ginger (10 cm-piece), grated
- 5 garlic cloves, minced
- 2 tbsp salt
- 2 tbsp tamari
- 2 tsp curry powder
- 2 tsp garam masala
- 1 tbsp blackstrap molasses
- 1 tbsp tomato paste
- 1 tsp tamarind paste
- 1 tsp anchovy paste
Instructions
- Wash your cabbage and remove the outer leaves. Set the leaves aside for later if you don't own fermentation weights, as they can be used to keep your ferment submerged. (see notes above)
- Start by slicing the cabbage very thinly. Transfer all the cabbage to a large glass or stainless steel bowl and mix in the 2 tablespoons of salt. While you prepare the rest of the ingredients, the salt can start to draw out the water from the cabbage, making it easier at the end to stuff the mixture into jars and to submerge it under its own juices.
- Halve Asian carrot lengthwise. Placing the carrot half flat-side down, halve it lengthwise once more, and then cut crosswise into thin slices (~5mm thick). Repeat with the other half. You should end up with many pizza-slice shaped pieces of carrot. Throw them into a large mixing bowl.
- Repeat the cutting process with the parsnips and them all to the mixing bowl, along with the onion, ginger and garlic.
- Mix together tamari, curry powder, garam masala, molasses, tomato paste, tamarind paste and anchovy paste. Pour it over the vegetables and mix until well combined.
- Pack the mixture into mason jars, or your preferred fermentation vessel, making sure to eliminate any air bubbles and to submerge all of the vegetable pieces under their own liquid. I used two half-gallon jars, and it fit perfectly, but you can also use smaller jars.
- Place a fermentation weight on top of the vegetables. Alternatively, press down some cabbage leaves saved in step 1 to keep your vegetables submerged. You can discard these leaves at the end of the fermentation period.
- Cover the jar with a lid, an airlock or a coffee filter or cheesecloth fastened with an elastic band (see notes above)
- Leave the jars out at room temperature for two to three weeks, or until you are happy with the taste.
Calories
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References
Kaiya, Tetsu, and Akira Hanasaki, Oishinbo, Vol.24 (Shogakukan, Tokyo, 1990)
